The San Francisco Peaks are the backdrop of Flagstaff, AZ. Originally, a single stratovolcano, the mountain stood at about 15,000’. However, over the last 400,000 years it has collapsed and eroded into the six peaks remaining today. Humphreys Peak being the tallest at 12,633’. It is also the highest point in Arizona.
Regional indigenous cultures consider the San Francisco Peaks to be sacred. A place where the Earth meets the unseen universe.
(click on any image to enlarge)
Humphreys Peak Trail begins at the Arizona Snowbowl. The out and back course is about 10.5 miles with an elevation gain of over 3,400'.
The first quarter mile is through a meadow that is flanked on the north by an Aspen stand and the peaks on the south. I had been waiting several days for the mountain skies to clear and was rewarded with a perfect morning.
The trail soon enters the forest of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness for a series of switchbacks. There are few breaks from either roots or rocks on this section. So it is best to stay focused here. Or, you may be hobbling back to your car before the real fun even begins.
Two and a half miles in is the first view of an amazing boulder field that stretches the entire height of the mountain.
After completing the remaining switchbacks the course straightens out along an overlook of the Snowbowl and Agassiz Peak. Agassiz Peak is off limits beyond tree line as it is the habitat of a rare and endangered flowering herb. For those who want a view from the tree line of Agassiz, without the inconvenience of roots & rocks - the Snowbowl has a gondola for that.
A hop, skip and a few jumps from the overlook the course arrives at the saddle with a view of the Inner Basin. The Inner Basin is where the summit of the original 15,000' mountain once stood. Today it is an amazing palette of subtle earthy colors.
The saddle also provides the first view of the summit. Another mile and half out and 800' up. A piece of cake....
But first things first. As I couldn't even find the trail coming out of the saddle. After a quick check of Alltrails and some hemming and hawing, I opted for plan B. Pretend to be viewing scenery until someone who knows what they are doing comes along. Then follow them. Which didn’t take long as the mountain was very busy that day. So, the scramble it was.
After the short scramble the trail pops out onto the north side of the mountain and traverses east across the top of the boulder field. Although, at this elevation, the boulders have been grounded up into gravel.
Humphreys Peak is on a ridge that includes two sub-peaks. These sub-peaks are often referred to as false summits. As they obscure the view of the next peak. So, a hiker may think they are about to summit, when really, they are not. Which can be disappointing. Having two false summits - Humphreys must really like this joke
Coming up off the steep grade of the gravel field the ridge and the first sub-peak present themselves.
The Ridge Trail wraps around the first sub-peak to the east. There was no snow or ice on the trails. However, there were small patches in between the boulders. Which was just to much for hiker humor.
Coming off the side of the first sub-peak, the trail climbs back up toward the ridge line and eventually the second sub-peak. This is the most challenging section of the course with scrambles and sketchy footing on a steep grade.
The second sub-peak is also a false summit. But I already knew that. So, I was not surprised or disappointed to see the true summit still ahead. To the contrary, this was the moment I knew I had this. Which is always an uplifting feeling.
The final section of the trail, up to the summit, is not easy to follow. If you lose it, you will be scrambling and boulder hopping your way to the top. The official path is marked by posts. Which seem to be more of a guideline than an actual trail. But hey, anything that steers a hiker away from a gravel slide down the mountain is a good thing.
Humphreys Peak is the center piece of the unique, beautiful, and challenging environment of the San Francisco Peaks. This was never a bucket list hike. But I'm glad to have found it. Humphreys will always hold a special place in my spirit of adventure.
