Introduction
Six million years ago the Colorado River began carving the Grand Canyon. Exposing metamorphic and igneous rock dating back 1.8 billion years to a time known as the Paleoproterozoic Era. When the most advanced life forms on Earth were single cell structures living in the black ocean(s).
Not quite back to the Paleoproterozoic Era, but still a while ago, I spent several days camping in and exploring the Grand Canyon. It was then, that I first discovered the magic of Planet Earth. So, it was pretty exciting when the plan to return came together.
Not wanting to be held hostage to the vagaries of the park’s back country permit system, I opted for the popular rim to rim (RTR) day hike. While no permits are required for this immersive adventure, the Park does not encourage it.
The Team
In all fairness, the Park has valid concerns about rim to river, rim to rim and rim to rim to rim hikers and runners. If you wish to attempt one of these day hikes you better be in pretty good physical shape and have the mental stamina to persevere through a long and challenging day. Otherwise, you will be sleeping with the scorpions that night - instead of sitting in a bar.
I was privileged to be accompanied by a remarkable group. That not only had these qualities, but who are also just wonderful people.
The NDE Shuttle
For the Trans-Canyon Near Death Experience shuttle to the North Rim I lucked into the front row seat next to the driver. Which provided me with plenty of leg room and control of a window. Important things on a four and a half-hour drive. It was also a premium seat for two near miss head on collisions. As our driver attempted passes on the two-lane Highway 89. Perhaps he misjudged how much a dozen people and a trailer full of gear weighed. Or, maybe he was to engrossed in telling me bullshit stories on how the San Francisco Peaks were named. Either way, after the second near miss, I consoled myself that there would be worse places to die than under the colorful Vermillion Cliffs and a bright blue Northern Arizona sky.
The North Rim
The North Rim Lodge was closing for the season at the end of the week. So, we spent the afternoon eating the remnants of the Lodge’s food inventory. Mostly comprised of hot dogs, half-cold pizza, hamburgers and (for one of us) more hot dogs. Towards evening we took a tourist hike to Bright Angel Point. Some of the team could not resist the call of the limestone knoll for a better view.
As dusk approached, we settled in on the Lodge’s balcony for the sunset and small talk about Georgia football with the other tourists. The Grand Canyon never looks the same from moment to moment. It is performance art of the universe.
Rim to Rim
Three A. M. comes fast on four hours of restless sleep. I thought I was doing well time wise until Erin knocked on my door at 3:55 A. M. Everyone else had already boarded the trailhead shuttle and were waiting on me. I guess I missed the part about being there early.
Things only got worse at the trailhead. The team was antsy to get going. But I was still fumbling with my headlamp. After specifically buying new batteries for it I had never taken the next step of actually replacing them. So, at 4:19 A. M. it was down the steep, rocky and pitch-black North Kaibab switchbacks. Holding my dim lamp by hand, I had just enough light to see my very next step. Which is a slow way to hike. In my head, I could hear the murmurs…” whose idea was it to bring this old guy along?” No one was happier than me when the darkness began to lift.
After 2,200' in descent over 2.5 miles the trail grade began to ease. Hiking does not get any better than a non-technical downhill trail that is visible. Especially, on the side of a Grand Canyon red wall cliff.
At 4.7 miles is Roaring Springs Waterfall. Through an antiquated pipeline system, the spring provides drinking water to the entire park. The pipelines have been prone to major leaks. Resulting in water restrictions on the rims and filtering for the hikers. To ensure a more reliable water supply the Park has begun a multi-year project to replace the entire water infrastructure. This will result in variously timed trail closures and even the shuttering of Phantom Ranch for a spell. Which is something to keep in mind if you are planning a visit.
Roaring Springs is also the source of Bright Angel Creek. The creek accompanies the North Kaibab Trail until it's confluence with the Colorado River. The creek was named by Colonel John Wesley Powell in 1869 after the hymn verse – “Shall we gather at the river, where bright angel’s feet have trod”.
After a break at Cottonwood Campground we descended into Bright Angel Canyon. Wait…another “Bright Angel”? Is there anything here not named Bright Angel? The truth is the European-American colonists were not very creative. Once they found a good name, they stuck with it. In this case the good name was Colonel Powell’s Bright Angel.
Bright Angel Canyon reveals one of the greatest mysteries of geology - “The Great Nonconformity.” A worldwide period where no geologic record exists. In the Grand Canyon there is about 1.2-billion years of missing rock. With 550-million-year-old sandstone sitting directly on the 1.8-billion-year-old Vishnu Basement Rock. Earth – the missing years!!!
Of course, you can not have a Grand Canyon nonconformity without a “Bright Angel” getting in the picture.
The walls of Bright Angel Canyon gradually converge onto the trail. Eventually forming the Box Canyon. This is the basement of the Grand Canyon. With walls of shiny black schist and salmon colored granite dating back to the Paleoproterozoic Era. A truly epic section of the Grand Canyon.
Past the Box Canyon is Phantom Ranch. An oasis just north of the Colorado River. The Ranch has cabins and dormitories for those lucky few who win the lottery. But what was important to us was the canteen that offered lemonade, snacks and postcards that get a special Phantom Ranch postmark.
With the aid of 5,740’ in descent we had covered the 13.6 miles from the North Rim to the Ranch in about 6 ½ hours. This left us with 4,340’ of ascent over the next 9.4 miles.
The team was eager for the challenge. I know this because they were already geared back up and ready to go - while the only thing I had ready was an extra bagel I could not fit in my pack..
Once the team got me refocused to the task at hand – we left Phantom Ranch and made our way towards the Colorado River. Just past Bright Angel Campground we turned off the North Kaibab and crossed the Silver Bridge.
On the south side of the river we headed west for a mile and a half on the River Trail. There is not much elevation gain on this section but it gets a bit sandy at times. A mule train passed by so we stood to the side and I bantered at the riders - "If you see me lying on the side of the trail on your way back up - please stop and turn off my Garmin".
The River Trail ends at the most infamous of the Bright Angels…Bright Angel Trail. The trail follows a natural path along the Bright Angel Fault that had been used by ancient hunter-gatherers and wildlife for unknown millenniums. It was initially improved in the 1890’s by European-American prospectors. Who then registered the trail with the county as Bright Angel Toll Road and charged a $1 easement fee. Of course, water use and other services were extra.
In any event, this is where the real fun began - with a 1,260’ climb out of the inner gorge and onto the Tonto Platform.
The grade eased on the Tonto platform as we made our way toward the base of the south cliffs and Havasupai Gardens. The Havasupai Tribe had inhabited the area they called Ha'a Gyoh for centuries. Then in the 1920's the Park evicted them and renamed the site Indian Gardens. In 2022 the Park recognized their past mistakes and renamed the site once again after the tribe. Billions of dollars in land rights for a named oasis in the Grand Canyon. Sounds about right…
A unique aspect of the RTR challenge is that the hard part is saved for last. Above Havasupai Gardens is 4.5-miles of seemingly endless switchbacks that climb 3,040’ to the South Rim and Bright Angel Lodge. Everyone, except for Chloe, hit some sort of wall in this section. Each mile felt like three as the hike turned into a slog-fest. Well, at least for me. The rim appeared so close. But it sure took a lot of switchbacks to get there.
Ultimately each member of the team was resilient and found a way back to the top. We completed the 23.5-miles course at about 5:40 P. M. - for a time of 13 hours and 20 minutes. Which accomplished our primary objective of finishing before the bars and restaurants closed. A happy ending to a perfect day hike.
