Introduction:
Over the last 100 million years a crystalized magma chamber was uplifted, weathered, exfoliated, and glacially eroded into Yosemite National Park’s Half Dome. The granite dome formation has three smoothly rounded sides and a sheer cliff on the fourth. At 8,839' Half Dome is the dominant feature of the eastern Yosemite Valley.
Why would anyone not want to climb this? Well...that is what these people thought.
Half Dome
Mist Trail
We set out from the Half Dome parking lot at 4:10 AM. It was pitch black. So, everyone was happy that they had followed instructions and brought a headlamp from home...
From the trailhead we began our climb up the Mist Trail. The Mist Trail is 2.7 miles of rock stairs with 2,000 feet in elevation gain. The trail gets its name from the mist that comes off Vernal and Nevada Falls in the spring and early summer. It was easy to follow as long as you listened to Frankie – “just keep going up.”
The relentless climb up the Mist Trail is one of the most challenging sections of the course. I’m sure there would have been amazing views. But we were enveloped in a cocoon of darkness where the next few stairs were all we could see. Or for that matter, cared about.
By the time we reached the top I was soaked in sweat. But we were greeted by a setting moon and a clear new day as our reward.
Little Yosemite Valley
Arriving at the top of Mist Trail is a small plateau and the crest of Nevada Falls. This is a scenic area and a popular day hike destination. But we did not stop to enjoy it (outbound) because we still had 2/3rds of the course to go.
The 2.6-miles through the Little Yosemite Valley is on the John Muir Trail (JMT). The trail begins alongside the Merced River with little to no elevation gain. This is the easiest section of the course. After the first 1.2-miles the trail turns northward, away from the river, and the climb resumes. Ending with a series of switchbacks and the Half Dome Trail.
Half Dome
The Half Dome trail traverses through an old growth forest for 1.6 miles before arriving at the entrance to the Half Dome area and the base of sub-dome. The trail up the sub-dome has been called the “Devil’s Staircase” - for its incline, tricky rock stairs and exposure. For me, it was the sketchiest section of the course. Which brought up a conversation – is it better to enjoy the view from a cliff trail or stay focused on your next step? That science was never settled.
With the Devil’s Staircase behind us we had our first up close and personal look at Half Dome.
Half Dome is 400-feet of slick granodiorite rock at a 45% grade. It was considered unclimbable until 1875 when a Scottish pioneer named George Anderson summited by bolting a makeshift rope route. Then in 1919 the Sierra Club built the first permanent cable system. Attaching a pair of cables to waist high posts and installing wooden slabs at their base. The cables have been upgraded over the years but the basic design remains as it was in 1919.
After a bit of hemming and hawing we dumped some gear weight, donned our gription gloves and began the push (or in this case the pull) up the dome. It was not long before the steep grade reminded me of an Achilles injury from years back. Disproving the bullshit that what does not kill you makes you stronger. At least in a physiological sense.
My Vibram MegaGrip outsoles were slipping so I always kept one hand on a cable. My arms began to ache as I pulled my way up - pole to pole. I appreciated each wooden slab for taking weight off my calves. Eventually the grade eased as we approached the summit.
The summit was much broader than I expected and offered sweeping views of the park.
Achieving a summit is always an uplifting experience. But what made this hike special was the team. Everyone had an engaging personality and that special quality I hold most dear - patience with the old guy.
